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LES VINS DU SIECLE



Appellation par appellation, nous vous proposons une sélection des meilleurs propriétaires de France pour la typicité des vins, leur rapport qualité-prix-plaisir, l'expression de leur terroir et leur passion de vignerons. Une présentation attractive de leur propriété, de la qualité des millésimes, de leurs prix... et surtout la possibilité d'entrer directement en contact avec eux.

Alsace Languedoc
Beaujolais Provence
Bordeaux Roussillon
Bourgogne Savoie
Champagne Sud-Ouest
Corse Val-de-Loire
Jura Vallée-du-Rhône

A l'honneur


CHATEAU DES ROCHETTES


COTEAUX-DU-LAYON
If the vine were already present at XVème, it is Alphonse Roulleau (1885-1957) which directs really the production of Château de Rochettes towards the wine. Already present at Salon of Agriculture of Paris before the war of 1914-1918, it gains many medals there. Following the marriage of his/her daughter Raymonde Roulleau with Louis Douet in 1946, the tradition remains, and marketing is directed towards the sales to individual out of barrels and bottles. In 1974, it is their only son Jean Douet who will take again the reins of the vineyard. Impassioned liqueur-like wines, it will set up a work group at beginning of the year 90 for the recognition and the coding of the mention “Sélection de Grains Nobles”. The retirement age approaching and not having a child interested by the recovery, it agrees to sell Château de Rochettes to Catherine Nolot, already owner of a nearby vineyard the “ Domaine de L’Eté ”. A vineyard of 25 ha where the control of the vine is done in the respect of the soil and the environment (putting under grass). The wine makings are personalized for each type of wines. According to the vintages, ageing lasts 6 to 18 months. You will appreciate this Anjou blanc Pièce du Moulin 2012, with the flavors intense, suave, very harmonious, subtle and powerful at the same time, where the ripe fruits and the fresh flowers intermingle, very accessible. The Anjou-Villages Château des Rochettes 2011 is very traditional, rich color, feels good the ripe fruits with core and the underwoods, a wine balanced very well, with silky tannins.   Excels Anjou-Villages rouge Pièce du Moulin 2011, of beautiful color deep ruby, with complex notes of liquorice and strawberry, combining tannic matters and smoothness, a wine for ageing.

DOMAINE DE L'AMAUVE


COTES-DU-RHONE-VILLAGE SEGURET
A family estate of 10 ha. The family has been present on Séguret since the French revolution and cultivates the vine for this time. Christian Vœux, oenologist, is a man grown in the vineyard who has been the winemaker of Château Mont-Redon during 25 years. He becomes in charge of this vineyard in 2006 and he create the Domaine de l’Amauve, at the retirement of his parents. Today, the Domaine de l’Amauve is producing One White wine and 4 cuvées in red.. All here is done in harmony with nature and in the respect of the environment. The culture of the vine is traditional there with work of the ground and limitation of the treatments according to the rules of reasoned agriculture. The limitation of the yield is natural in the old vines, however, in order to ensure a better regularity, the vineyard has wild grass growing one row every two. In the young vines, the wild grass does not have a sufficient effect, also, the green harvest is practiced like method of selection of the bunches and control of the yield. You will like this CDR-Village Séguret Réserve 2015, with prevailing of Grenache (80%), supplemented by Syrah, maturing 12 months in oak barrels and tanks, powerful, of a nice aromatic fullness, slightly spiced, combining suppleness and structure, a very successful, perfect wine on a chicken with spices or macaronis with the chanterelles. The 2009, with tannins quite molten but very present, complex, fleshy and scented in mouth, continue its evolution. The CDR-Villages Laurances rouge 2016 is of color cherry steady, with the powerful undergrowth and cooked fruit aromas, with tannins firm and melted at the same time. All in delicacy, CDR-Villages La Daurèle blanc 2016, rich in bouquet (citrus fruits, hawthorn, almond…), all is a wine stops of them, all of structure and perfumes, molten and persistent, to uncork on rolls of salmon to the seafood. Taste the IGP de Vaucluse rouge 2016, Grenache and Syrah, where the prune and pepper intermingle, of structure harmonious, dense in mouth, quite robust, a wine of garnet-red color intense.

CHAMPAGNE BOURDAIRE-GALLOIS


POUILLON
Family estate of 5.36 ha, including 4.60 ha of vine with which prevails of Pinot meunier. It is Robert Massonnot, the grandfather of David Bourdaire, who began the agri-wine activity thanks to some family grounds. In 1951, it founds with three other vine growers the co-operative of Pouillon and markets its first bottles in 1956. At that time, the co-operative is only one place of collection and pressing, which sells the harvest of the members in the form of musts to the traders Champagne. They are only 2 to make their Champagne, themselves in the buildings of the co-operative with their own material. The house proposes this Champagne brut cuvée Symphonie Prestige (harvest 2007 bases) a subtle and complex Champagne, which associates freshness and structure, finely acidulous, one of most attractive tasted this year, with connotations of lemon, Narcisse and toast, delicate and fruity foam, of a beautiful fullness to the palate, to uncork on a pot of burbot. Tasty Champagne brut rosé, pure Meunier, very representative of this type of vine, very attractive, of beautiful robe, with the ripe fruit nose (currant, raspberry…), with this very cordial delicately spiced key. The Millésime 2005, is very characteristic of this mature vintage, a powerful wine, of round mouth, slightly spiced as it should be, with the aromas intense, with prevailing of hazel nut and apricot, harmonious with the nose as in mouth. Beautiful Champagne Blanc de blancs, coming from the harvest 2007, of which a part is vinified out of barrels, a vintage rich but all in delicacy (proportioned with 7g/l), typified well, very scented (citrus fruits, almond…), a quite robust, harmonious wine in mouth, of excellent evolution. Taste also brut Réserve, a sharp and harmonious Champagne, marked by notes of citrus fruits and fresh flowers, round and highly-strung person at the same time, who agrees perfectly during a meal.

CHATEAU DE ROQUEBRUNE


LALANDE-DE-POMEROL
Florent GUINJARD is a child of Bordeaux. Fact. With his strong passion for wine, it is his heartfelt wish to share it with the greatest amount of people possible. More than anything, he likes to discover the amazing diversity of the wines produced at his estate. In charge of the winery, which has belonged to his family since 1880, he carries on the family tradition while continuing to progress his wine making techniques year after year. And with the advice from best winemakers in Bordeaux he offers a top quality wine at an accessible price. His passion: to produce fruity wines, fine wines, and far from oaky. His trademark: fruit. Fully bodied, typical of the appellation, his Lalande-of-Pomerol cuvée Reine 2014, developed aromas of macerated fruit and spices, a beautiful garnet-red color, dense on the nose like in the mouth, combining fineness and structure, with tannins both rich and silky, an excellent evolution. The beautiful 2012, with a stunning ruby color, a very harmonious wine, with the nose of raspberry and violet and a note of spices, fleshy in mouth. The 2011, full and rich on the nose and mouth, with a beautiful balance; fat, and as the tannins melt flavors of morrello cherries and hummus marry, a very pretty wine, dense, perfect with lamb. Superb 2010, with notes of ripe red fruits (black currant) and sweet spices (cinnamon); quite fleshy with great intensity, delicious and powerful tannins at the same time. The 2009 is a classic vintage, with prolonged color, balanced, perfumed, with firm tannins, a complex nose of black currant and spices, combine for roundness and structure.

DOMAINE MOULIN DU POURPRÉ


COTES-DU-RHONE
Françoise Simon has lived a life well lived: she's been a journalist in New York City, hung out with James Brown in Paris and was on friendly terms with Don Cherry. She would have continued to bounce around the globe if only the death of her beloved father in 1995 hadn't put an halt to it all. It's been now more than 18 years that she has been handling practically everything on Domaine du Moulin Pourpré, only using the help of her very small crew. As i visited her domaine in the "hameau" of Colombier in Sabran, she was more than eager to share her experience and her passion for wine with me. When her father passed away, Françoise suddenly found herself as the only heir of a family tradition in winemaking dating back for more than 10 generations… With very little knowledge about the trade (the memories of herself tasting some wine as a child was the closer you can get from her then level of expertise!), she jumped onto the bandwagon. Connecting with the vines, learning their secret was a way to transcend the pain of the grieving process. With the support of one of her neighbour who was able to share with Françoise the knowledge her father didn't have the time to pass on to her, she started taking notes on everything there was to learn about vinification, winemaking, blending, so on and so forth…. Soon enough, she found out that taking notes was far from being the only method to learn about the vines; she had to open up to it, let the vines speak to her and embrace the challenge and the complexity of winemaking . She had to be willing to jump into the big unknown with no holding barrels. After a few hits and misses at her early stages, her tenacity has proven her right. And most importantly, it has shown to everyone who was expecting her to last no more than a year or two that they were wrong, oh so wrong! She has acquired the ability to create amazing blends, which have been highly acclaimed in many agricultural competitions and have received amongst the highest accolades in the region. If i had to list it all, this article would be twice as long, just saying… Even her single varietals are beautifully crafted, and reflect not only a great "savoir-faire", but also an obvious passion for the trade. I was able to sample her Cote du Rhone Blanc Cuve tradition 2012 (a blend of Bourboulenc & Ugni Blanc), which was a nice dry white, with a good acidity. Her second white, "Venus 2012" (using the same varietals, but with a longer time spent in barrels), managed to render a wine more supple, almost sensual, with rounder finish of peach and honey. It was like a voice has said to me "hey, wait a minute, there's something special there…". This was later confirmed by the tasting of her rosé "la Vie en Rose 2011", a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault, with a beautiful bouquet of red fruits yet with quite some finesse, nothing like these overly fruity, overly sweet rosés you can sometimes find closer to the South of France. This wine has won two medals at the Concours General Agricole de Paris, which is always a trademark of good taste from lesser known terroirs, as well as a Silver Medal in Avignon in 2009. It is a joyous, friendly wine, very accessible whichever your requirements are when it comes to rosé. Then it was time to taste some reds. The Côte du Rhône Cuvée Tradition 2008 was a good representative of its kind, traditional and without any pretence, yet blunt and straight to the point. But the ones that really got my fancy were "Carmen 2010" and "Reine de Saba 2010". Let's start with "Carmen". Everyone has in mind the amorous passionara Verdi wrote about in his opera. Inspired by the famous arias, Francoise Simon managed to encapsulate the whole she-bang in her wine: it's a voluptuous body draped in a fancy red velvet dress. This Grenache/Syrah reveals a fruity aroma, in which blackcurrant, spices and a hint of chocolate are coming together in perfect balance as the complexity keeps evolving in the mouth. It is an extremely seductive wine that can only put you under a spell, as it did for the jury of the Concours de l'Union des Œnologues which gave it a Gold Medal. As for the "Reine de Saba", there couldn't be any other grape than Shiraz to represent both mystery and sensuality. The Queen of Sheba has been known not only as a stunning beauty, but also a smart and wise lady. She stole the heart of King Solomon, and one had to be pretty confident about its wine to bless it with such heavy heritage. Yet, this wine is a big success: it epitomises all the fantasies one can have about the Middle East. It's a wine which makes you travel far, far away, and before you know it, you are transported in a caravanserai under the desert sky, where belly dancers are doing their sensuous moves… The most masculine wine of Françoise Simon is velvety and strong in tannin, yet stays very supple on the palate, and i particularly enjoyed the little liquorice taste on the finish. Article written by Carolyne Borel, a friendly of Françoise Simon.




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